Went on this voyage to see the Northern Lights. NO Northern Lights. Hurtigruten advertise a free trip if you do not see them, but you have to have an inside cabin, pay through the nose for your food. A real advertising gimmick and not to be trusted. The ship is ok, but you have to buy everything except for the air you breath. Meals are included and so is the ghastly coffee out of a massive tank. You need to take out a mortgage to come on this ship and I guess all of Hurtigruten ships. It was announced on one day that whilst we were on a bus trip that the chef had baked an apple cake for us. Then came the downer, you had to buy it! The so called expedition team are unimaginably boring. Just the two, and the so called leader went off on a four day jolly during the voyage. If there is to be an expedition team at least give them a personality even they have very little knowledge of where or what we might see. The internet provided all the info given during the so called team briefing.. The trips are very expensive for a ride on a bus and most the the little energy the expedition team had was trying to sell the trips. A very boring 12 days at sea with very rough seas for a lot of it. Stuff flying all over the place and a very very very rocky ship. Food was quite good except for the buffet if you were not like the Germans and queuing at the door as soon as it is open. They then grab the tables, just like towels, take huge platefuls of food not caring how they leave the dish for the next person. The buffet is not replenished to provide a decent amount of food for those who are not first in the queue. The ship cannot seat all of the passengers all at one time, so for lunch and breakfast there is often a queue, unless you are German of course, dinner is in two sittings . If you are allocated the late one at 8.15 it is horrendous as you then go to bed with a full stomach or have to sit up late on this sterile ship to let the food settle. All in all a complete waste of money for what is promoted as a memorable voyage of a lifetime. Will not be taking up the so called free trip for not having seen the Northern Lights, and will certainly not recommend Hurtigruten to even my worst enemy