We traveled as a family of four - my husband and two grown sons (26 and 28). We chose the Galapagos because it would have something for everyone and it is an active trip - hiking, snorkeling, kayaking. We chose Quasar Expeditions and The M/V Grace because of the reputation of each. Quasar sends only very small groups - our total group was 18 passengers, and I cannot imagine a better set up for really seeing everything in the Galapagos. We had two Level IV naturalists and traveled on each shore expedition as a group of 8 or a group of 10; that ratio of guests to naturalist cannot be surpassed. Both naturalists were superb in their knowledge and both were local - one from Guayaquil and one from the Galapagos itself. We were always out and about before any other ship - kayaking at 6:30 a.m. (that was optional) or snorkeling at 7 a.m., getting to all the best spots first.

I cannot say enough about the ship M/V Grace - where to start? It was a wedding gift to Princess Grace of Monaco from Aristotle Onassis. Wood panelling, wood floors, coffered ceilings, beautiful built-ins, bathrooms that really looked like and had the space of real bathrooms - just gorgeous. Every meal was al fresco on the rear deck - delicious local, healthy, elegant but simple food. The crew of 12 did everything as though we were the first group they had ever hosted on the ship - superb. The captain even turned the ship around so we could follow a pod of 500 dolphins leaping through the waves as they chased fish - we followed them for 20 minutes in the direction away from our destination - that's caring!

We had at least 3 activities a day, plus siesta time (usually 1-2 hours after lunch as the ship repositioned). Hopping into the hot tub after snorkeling and having tea or hot cocoa handed to you is the lap of luxury. Star gazing from the rooftop deck at night was sublime. Read more